A Year of Building, Growing, and Showing Up

This year was less about checking destinations off a map and more about putting down roots—literally and figuratively—in Galápagos. It was a year defined by construction dust, permits, community, resilience, and the satisfaction that comes from seeing multiple projects come to fruition.

The year began with continued construction at Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery (PCSD). The Campbells arrived in mid-January, hauling supplies and energy for their month-long visit. Together, we built out the shipping container office for Galapagos Surf Discovery and added much-needed storage to our apartment terrace. Progress was steady, hands-on, and very real.

February brought a major milestone: the occupancy permit for PCSD was officially issued. Considering the scope of the project, the fact that we managed to complete primary construction in eight months still feels remarkable. We celebrated with an inauguration party—though construction continued well beyond the ribbon-cutting as we added more windows, pergolas, and other refinements and improvements throughout the year.

In July, the Campbells returned for two intense weeks of projects—both for us and for our friends—while we also remodeled the empty space behind the plaza. The month ended on a dramatic note with a tsunami alert, a reminder that life in the islands often comes with a dose of the unexpected.

August opened new doors when PCSD received official permission to host events in the back lot and on the third floor. Since then, the space has come alive with movie nights, streaming of live sports, birthday parties, festivals, and gatherings that have transformed the plaza into a true community hub.

In September, I launched a GoFundMe for our friends, Bella and Andrés. We have now raised almost $5,000 which puts us close to halfway toward our overall goal. If you are reading this and are able to make a donation, please know that every little bit helps! At the same time, I was also dealing with the diagnosis of serious medical issues for two dear friends, and the subsequent implosion of their business here in San Cristóbal, a reminder that not all challenges are structural—and not all solutions are simple.

In November, Fabian and I made a long-delayed trip to Guayaquil for medical checkups. Thankfully, we are both in overall good health, but MRIs confirmed my cervical spine issues and a rotator cuff tear. For now the treatment is more physical therapy, which has not been particularly effective. It also marked a personal statistic that still feels surreal—887 consecutive days in Galápagos, from May 30, 2023 to November 2, 2025.

In December, another milestone arrived: PCSD was finally rented out at full occupancy. While modifications continue, the plaza is now operating as we envisioned. Even more meaningful, on December 13 we officially began construction on a home for Bella and Andrés, turning collective effort into something tangible and lasting.

Throughout all of this, our travel agency and tour operation continued to grow as we personally operated or coordinated over 566 unique tours, transportation, and other services in Galapagos and Ecuador. I also translated a book from Spanish to English, continued to provide administrative support for local businesses, and attended community meetings and participated in local events as much as possible.

In summary, this wasn’t a year of pause. It was a year of commitment—to projects, to people, and to the long game. And as always, the adventure continues.

2024: An Entire Year in Galapagos

Wishing a slightly belated New Year's greetings to all of my blog readers! Another year has gone by in which I didn't manage to write a single blog post. Well, that's not entirely true, as I continue to create and update content on the Galapagos Surf Discovery website on a regular basis. When you're an independent business owner and are responsible for running an entire company, there's little time for much of anything that's not work-related. That also means that 2024 was the first year that I did not set foot outside of the Galapagos Islands; I didn't even go to continental Ecuador. As of today (January 5) I have been on the islands for 586 consecutive days!

With that as an intro, here's a month-by-month recap of some of the highlights (and a few of the not-so-great moments) of the year that was.

January

10 - The Campbells arrived in San Cristobal for their annual month-long visit. While we are usually pretty busy with tours during this time, we love cooking meals together, going on walks, visiting with friends, and just hanging out playing dominoes and other games on our fourth floor terrace.

Enjoying the sunset from our terrace in San Cristobal

February

5 - Fabian and I flew to Isabela with the Campbells and walked to the Wall of Tears, did the Sulphur Mines volcano hike and the Los Túneles excursion by boat. We flew back to San Cristobal on the 7th. A few days later, the plane we had been on for both flights had a mechanical failure during takeoff from SCY, made an emergency landing on the water, and quickly sank to the bottom of the ocean. Thankfully the pilot and passengers were rescued with no injuries.

Us at Sierra Negra Volcano Sulphur Mines

19 - GALAPAGOS SURFDISCOVERY S.A.S. was officially registered with The Superintendency of Companies, Securities and Insurance, the technical body that oversees and controls the organization, activities, operation, dissolution and liquidation of companies and other entities under the circumstances and conditions established by law in Ecuador.

25 - I went to Isla Lobos on a familiarization (FAM) trip with our clients Sandy and Ellie. During this week we had multiple clients visiting San Cristobal and were able to organize some unique activities for them with the support of the local Chamber of Tourism (CATURCRIST).

26 - Fabian and I started training for IRF (International Rafting Federation) certification. We completed one week of online classes followed by one week of intensive practical training and graduated on March 8.

29 - I ordered five paddleboards directly from a U.S. manufacturer who said they would handle all logistics for shipping them to Galapagos. After an unbelievable amount of drama with Ecuador customs, fines, threats of a lawsuit, etc. they were finally delivered to our door in San Cristobal on April 17. One month after that, we (Galapagos Surf Discovery in conjunction with Islanders Store) were granted full permission by Galapagos National Park and the local port authority to operate SUP tours in addition to our kayak tours.

March

16 - We hosted our first "dinner with the locals" in which Fabian and I prepare a meal with as many locally-sourced ingredients as possible for clients of Come To Galapagos. This is now a regular feature of their custom island-hopping tours.

April

2 - Galapagos Surf Discovery was officially registered with MINTUR, the Ministry of Tourism in Ecuador, as a licensed travel agency and tour operator.

May

22 - Our construction permit for "Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery" was approved by the local authorities.

Render of the building based on the original plans

June

1 - The latest edition of Lonely Planet Ecuador guidebook was published. Fabian is featured in a sidebar about surfing in Galapagos.

6 - After months of online training and assignments, both Fabian (representing Galapagos Surf Discovery) and I (representing Galapagos Brewery Project, a sports bar concept) were notified that we had been selected as finalists in Emprende Turismo Ecuador, a program that promotes the creation, implementation and consolidation of innovative ventures with potential for development and growth.

10 - We broke ground on the construction of Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery.

12 - Fabian's 50th birthday; we celebrated on the 15th with a cookout with friends on our terrace.

30 - The Campbells arrived in San Cristobal for a last-minute 10-day visit.

July

3 - I went on a day trip to Española (Punta Suarez and Bahía Gardner) with the Campbells.

12- My 50th birthday; we celebrated a few days early with the Campbells and then my friend Christina treated me to lunch on the day of.

27 - The crew poured the first floor foundation for Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery.

August

31 - The crew poured the second floor foundation for Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery.

September

5 - I started having severe neck pain. It came out of nowhere and by the following day I was forced to stay in bed as it restricted almost all my upper body movement. It continued to get worse so I went to the emergency room in the early morning of the 7th. I was treated with IV pain killers and muscle relaxants and sent home with instructions to follow up with the trauma doctor (we don't have specialists here). After multiple evaluations and X-rays, they said my cervical spine is compressed and lacks the proper curve. Every doctor who sees the imaging asks "Were you in a car accident?"

26 - The crew poured the third floor foundation for Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery.

October

1 - I started daily physical therapy at the hospital. As of this writing in early January 2025, I continue to go to PT as often as possible. They have tried various types of treatments: magnet, laser, ultrasound, electrical nerve stimulation (TENS unit), whirlpool, massage, and home exercises. My condition has not improved i.e. I'm in constant mild to moderate discomfort and sometimes severe pain. The physiatrist, general practitioner, and trauma doc have urged me to get an MRI but that requires flying to continental Ecuador. Hopefully I can coordinate a trip in March.

8 - We filed a formal complaint against one of the cargo companies for charging 10 times more than the regulated price for shipping building materials from mainland Ecuador to Galapagos. The difference in cost was over $2,000. In their eventual response to the government's Maritime Transport office, the company lied about how the material was packed. The government chose not to pursue the matter further and told us to resolve it directly with the cargo company whose executives will not respond to our emails.

17 - Installation of the PANELEGO walls continues for Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery.

November

12 - Fabian and I took a FAM trip to Española to try a new-to-us itinerary: Playa Manzanilla, Islote Tortuga, and Punta Cevallos.

15 - Structural work is essentially complete on Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery.

21-24 I flew to Isabela on a FAM trip with the Come To Galapagos crew and did several tours: Tintoreras; Los Túneles + Playa Cormorán; Sierra Negra; and had an early Thanksgiving dinner at the Hauser's.

December

13 - The crew finished installing the glass roof for Plaza Commercial Surf Discovery. The project now enters the final phase of construction.

18 - Fabian and I received our certificates of completion for Emprende Turismo. While neither of us was chosen to receive seed capital, the business training and one-on-one mentoring we received during the second half of the program was invaluable.

23 - I went on a FAM trip to Isla Lobos to try out another boat/operator and assess the trail conditions.

31 - The crew cleans up the third floor of Plaza Comercial Surf Discovery and connects some provisional lighting so we can toast the new year in style.

Summary

I scanned my personal calendar for all of 2024 and apart from the Campbell's visits and some gatherings or meals with local friends and attending a few local events, there are just reminders to call friends/family in the U.S., birthdays and graduations missed, annotations of changes in the weather, reminders to do laundry or take out the trash, pay bills, etc.

My business calendar on the other hand is packed with all of the tours and transport I booked for clients along with the tours that Fabian and/or I personally operated; work-related meetings; training; accounting/legal meetings and deadlines; construction meetings, milestones, and payment deadlines; and never-ending To Do lists.

My phone's camera roll tells a similar story: daily construction progress, design renders, samples, and cargo bills; clients and tour info; local wildlife and scenery; food and friends.

In short, it was a very busy year and 2025 is off to a big start!

I am so thankful for the love and support from my family, without whom all of this wouldn't be possible. Thanks to my friends for your patience and understanding as I try to find balance in these crazy times. And thanks to our clients, many of whom we now call friends, for entrusting me/us with any and all aspects of your Galapagos vacation.

Galapagos Surf Discovery's 2024 by the numbers

• 784+ tours or transport sold via 250 unique reservations, all coordinated and managed by Alethea
• 176+ tours/activities personally lead by Fabian and/or Alethea

Five Ways to Celebrate Fall near Portland, Oregon

 This story was originally published on my now-defunct website Coast to Prost on October 4, 2017.

The harvest season is upon us! Within an hour's drive in almost any direction, you can find a bounty of beverages, food and other products that are made with locally grown crops. Add in the beautiful natural scenery and lingering summer sunshine and you have the perfect recipe for enjoying fall in and around Portland.

Drink Some Fresh Hop Beers

Commercial hop production in the U.S. occurs primarily in Washington, Oregon and Idaho, thus making Portland and the Pacific Northwest an ideal place to sample these unique beers. Many breweries offer fresh hop beers only during the months of September and October as they are made with freshly picked hops. The harvest typically starts in late August and continues through mid-September. Brewers add the fresh or "wet" whole cone hops to the brew kettle, often on the same day they are harvested, to preserve the aroma and "green" flavor of the perishable flower.

Some breweries package their fresh hop offerings in limited edition bottles and cans. Beer bars often devote some or all of their taps to a rotating assortment of fresh hop beers from the region. There are also festivals dedicated to fresh hop beers and ciders. Plus you can always stop by your favorite bottle shop and ask what they have in stock.

Wherever you choose to imbibe, do it soon. These beers won't be around long and are intended to be consumed immediately.

Go Wine Tasting

The Willamette Valley harvest season typically starts in late August and ends by early October. It's a beautiful time of year to visit the region, as the vines begin to change from bright green to gold, competing with the trees already exhibiting their fall colors. The most common grape varietals are pinot noir, pinot gris, and chardonnay, but you can try many wonderful and unique wines from over 500 wineries located from Portland to Eugene. Many tasting rooms are still open daily from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. but be sure to check their website or call ahead to verify hours. Also check the calendar for harvest parties, winemaker dinners, and other fun fall activities.

Pick Your Own Fruit

Fall is the perfect time to visit the Hood River Fruit Loop, one hour east of Portland. Farms along Hwy 35 offer an abundance of apples, pears, pumpkins and gourds, some of which you can pick yourself. Farm stands feature fresh cider, apple butter and other locally made products. There are also many wineries and breweries in the area. Don't forget to stop by Cascade Alpacas of Oregon to visit their fluffy camelids!

Get Lost in a Maze

Just over 20 miles northwest of Portland, the largest island on the Columbia River is comprised primarily of farmland and a dedicated wildlife refuge. Sauvie Island is always a peaceful place for bicycling, hiking, boating and bird watching. But, in the fall, most people bring their family and friends to tackle one of the three corn mazes in addition to enjoying a multitude of pumpkin patches, hay rides, climbable hay pyramids, petting zoos, and other kid (and adult) friendly activities.

Go Leaf Peeping

The Pacific Northwest is known for its old-growth forests of coniferous Douglas firs and western hemlocks. The average age of these giant trees is 350 to 750 years old. They are beautiful to look at and walk among any time of year, as they are evergreens. For a few weeks in fall, you can also enjoy the colorful foliage of deciduous trees, which are primarily located in and around cities but can be found all over the state if you know where to go.

One of my favorite places for leaf peeping that's right here in Portland is Washington Park. Here you can experience a couple of unique outdoor spaces that are filled with fall color: Hoyt Arboretum and the Portland Japanese Garden. An added bonus is that you can visit the park without a car by using the free shuttle from the Washington Park MAX station. You'll still be walking a fair amount, but that's the best way to fully experience the beauty and solitude of these two natural attractions.

Another go-to spot is the Banks-Vernonia State Trail. This multi-use trail was the first in Oregon to repurpose an abandoned railway corridor. Located about 30 miles west of Portland, the 22.7 mile long trail is mostly level and is paved the entire length. It is suitable for wheelchairs, walking, bicycling, inline skating and horseback riding. In the fall, the lush greenery of Douglas firs contrasts with the vivid reds and yellows of the alder, ash, cottonwood and maple trees among other deciduous varieties. Don't miss the 80-foot-tall curving Buxton Trestle near the Buxton Trailhead.

Going Straight to the Source

A Weekend Class Inspires a Portland Beer Writer to Visit the Pilsner Urquell Brewery

This story was originally published on my now-defunct website Coast to Prost on September 26, 2017.

I didn’t plan to go to Plzeň -- Pilsen in German -- during my trip to Europe this summer. In fact, I was specifically focused on researching and exploring the emerging craft beer scene in the Balkans and eastern Europe. But when I had to find a way to get from Munich, Germany to Szczecin, Poland in early June, I realized that if I went by train I wouldn’t have to deviate too far off the most direct route to visit the world-famous Pilsner Urquell brewery. 

The seed of this idea was actually planted in my mind months before, when I attended OSU’s Origins of Beer Flavors and Styles course in mid-March. The two-day course covered everything from the sensory evaluation of beer to brewing techniques, ingredients, styles and defects. Pilsner Urquell was featured several times, in the fermentation lecture as well as the history of beer styles. Class attendees even got to sample representative beers and Pilsner Urquell was among them.

First brewed in 1842 at the newly built Burghers’ Brewery in Plzeň, the beer was created as a better tasting and higher quality alternative to the top-fermented dark ales that were widely available at the time. In addition, the brewery allowed the burghers (citizens) to retain control of the entire brewing and sales process, and to better compete in the local market. The meaning of the beer’s name is the same whether you use the German urquell or the Czech prazdroj; it translates as “pilsner from its original source.” This year is the 175th anniversary of the first batch of golden lager brewed in the Burghers’ Brewery. It was high time that I paid my respects at the birthplace of pilsner beer.

I entered the expansive Plzeňský Prazdroj complex through the historic Jubilee Gateway built in 1892 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Burghers’ Brewery. The complex includes a visitor center, souvenir shop, restaurant, beer garden, conference center and administrative buildings, along with the brewery and packaging hall. I showed up without a tour reservation which I don’t advise, especially during the busy summer months. The number of daily tours in English varies according to the season; there were four when I visited on a Monday in early June. However, the first tour was already fully booked, so I had to wait for the next available one that afternoon. After browsing around the visitor center and gift shop, I settled in for a pint in the beer garden and watched a steady stream of tourists entering the complex.

Finally it was time to meet up with the tour guide. Our group of almost 40 people included visitors from every continent except Antarctica. The tour started with our guide giving us a brief history of the brewery and a look at some important documents and awards from the late 1800s.

Our next stop was the 100 liter pilot brewery, which is used for training employees, testing ingredients, brewers experiments, and to make special batches like a beer for the President of the Czech Republic, Miloš Zeman. From there we took an environmentally friendly bus running on CNG (compressed natural gas) to the packaging hall. Completed in 2006, the 20,000 square meter building houses state of the art filtration and pasteurization technology, two new packaging lines capable of processing 120,000 bottles and 60,000 aluminum cans per hour, and a distribution warehouse.

The bus took us back to the learning center where we rode the largest passenger lift in the Czech Republic to a panoramic cinema and watched a film about Pilsner Urquell beer production as the floor rotated. Then we entered the sensory exposition hall which features hands-on exhibits of the special ingredients used in the beer including Czech barley malt, Žatec (Saaz) hops, soft water from Pilsen and special brewer’s yeast.

Next we entered the brewery, first admiring the early 20th century brewhouse with copper kettles dating back to 1931, then the modern one built in 2004. Below the brewery is an exhibit on the people (brewers, maltsters, coopers, etc.) that have had a hand in making Pilsner Urquell what it is today. I was amazed to see the original copper kettle in which the first batch of golden lager was brewed in 1842.

Finally we descended into the damp, cool underground cellars which comprise almost nine kilometers in length all together. The constant 7℃ year round temperature is perfect for lager fermentation in open wooden vats and maturation in oak casks. Since 1992, only a small amount of beer is made this way; the rest is kept in modern stainless steel and glycol-jacketed conical fermenters.

For me, the highlight of the tour was sampling unfiltered, unpasteurised Pilsner Urquell tapped directly from an oak lager cask. This special beer is available exclusively to tour guests and those who participate in the brewery’s šalanda programs. It tasted completely different from the bottled version that’s available worldwide and also distinctly different from what I drank earlier in the onsite beer garden. Add to that the experience of drinking this unique beer in an underground cellar dating to 1839 while surrounded by massive 28 hectoliter barrels. It was surreal!

After emerging from the cold darkness of the tunnels, I couldn’t resist having another pint in the sunshine of the beer garden. While it was good, it didn’t compare to the freshness and sensory pleasure of drinking Pilsner Urquell straight from the source.

For more information and to book a tour of the Pilsner Urquell brewery, please click here: Plzeňský Prazdroj

Footnote

I was awarded a scholarship from Pink Boots Society to attend the Origins of Beer Flavors and Styles course. This article is part of my Pay-It-Forward obligation requiring scholarship recipients to pay forward the knowledge they gained from their scholarship course within six months of completing the course.

For more information about Pink Boots Society, please click here: https://www.pinkbootssociety.org/